Making a pair of doors, in timber for a 3.4. wide by 3.5 m high ope

[Calahonda52]

[I made a pair of doors for a 2.4 wide ope, 2m high before so have some idea what I am about, just some!

They were full mortise and tenons in red deal, 7 by 2 rails, and sheeted both sides with TGV boards

Doors will be mounted externally to the wall

The width between the sticks is 3.4 m and I am raising the wall, currently 2.4 m to 3.5m in a material to be decided .

The sticks are vertical, just the picture is skewed.

Was looking at a roller shutter but it requires at least another 600 mm over the ope which would bring the wall to 4.1 plus, which in block would be, IMO, too much load for the foundations so am considering a TF add on
[Established last evening that the wall is built on the floor slab so need to look further at what foundations are there.

There is also a further complication in that I can't buy a steel lintel without an engineers sign off on the loading...

Could look at a steel door or a pair but want to explore the timber idea first.

Will put in two 4m lengths of 4 by 4 box to act as jambs where the timbers are

So am thinking I will need full M&T again and the the big dominos would not cut it

Was also thinking of engineered I joists, maybe 300 by 60, cut at 45 degrees at the corners for styles and rails but and braced with L shaped 25 mm marine ply on both sides: the webs are 8 mm so 60-8 = 52/2 is 26 mm.
However I suspect I would need to ensure they never got wet so will sheet with metal sheeting
Also haven't figured out the fixing for intermediate rails
The third option is full engineered timber


Price Ex Vat
SJL 45 X 220 X 6000mm € 46.69
SJL 60 X 300 X 6500mm euro 69.94

LVL R 45 X 300 X 5000mm € 106.40
LVL R 45 X 300 X 7000mm € 148.96
LVL R 75 X 300 X 5000mm € 177.31
LVL R 75 X 300 X 7000mm € 248.23

Look forward to your comments

door components.png (70.9 KiB) Viewed 3140 times

[kadman]

You mention a steel lintel, is there anything going above it. Judging by the photo, the floor below the blockwork in the ope are is very poor looking, and I very much doubt if that is going to be able to support anything.

On first impression, I would make the entire entrance from steel box iron as an integral unit, doors and fame completed to po put into place. Either put an entire concrete strip foundation across the ope to support the framed unit, or

Concrete pad at each door jamb stile, and either run the stiles into the concrete pad a required depth. Or base plates on the bottom of the stiles to bolt into the pad with chemical anchors. The head of the frame could extend beyond each side of the blockwork and framed down to attach and anchor to the blocks for stability of both the blocks and the frame.

Wind load on large doors if its facing westward will be considerable if its open. So best to assume that you have no existing firm foundation to attach it to, ergo you musts make your own.

This is my first opinion based on not long up, and busy looking at other stuff..............................so may be subject to change.

[kadman]

Raising the wall to that height means pillars??

[Calahonda52]

Thanks, I concur with the idea of the foundation in front of existing, will get my digger man to open it up all the way across.
I will look more closely at existing but based on what else the man did, I expect something decent so the pic may be doing him an injustice

Won't raise the walls any further than they are with block, will go TF: 300 wide wall I joists with OSB3 and windproof layer outside, finish with corrugated sheeting
Will have steel uprights inside about ever 1.2m
Am looking at using the same for the roof, make it flat with them and then use firring pieces to get a 5% slope on a A roof
The lift would be c 200 for the 2.5m span

Its all still in design mode

[kadman]

Pics of your overall design would be helpful. At the moment I am picturing a complete door frame plus doors attached to the face of the 2 sticks, my rough description. I suspect and hope I am wrong, but the lack of info leads me to this.

[Calahonda52]

Been away celebrating ny birthday, spent 2 nights in Ardmore, sea swims and cycles...
Anyway re the plan, was down on the greenway and saw this so may revisit the roller shutter idea, with a canopy over head.


Got holes dug for steel uprights outside the wall while I was away so yes , two uprights and a head piece and two doors, which need to open back to allow me reverse in.
I have got a quote for a single steel frames door for 2,000 euro...

[kadman]

It still has not clicked for me why you are putting a door frame wider than the ope, and attaching to the face of the wall.
Obviously something has not clicked for me on this design??

[Calahonda52]

My apologies.
I need 3.4 or 3.5 wide of an ope for reversing in as I don't have a 100 % straight run in front and the overhang beyond the back axle is 2.5.
Am still toying with a roller shutter which could be mounted externally on two steel piers with the bottom of the roof trusses flush with the 3.5 ope rather than at 4.2 or 4.3 if the roller shutter box and access space are inside the shed.
This not a runner with TF

Shed is 4.3 gross width or 3.9 internal [ 300 mm cavity wall both sides] So I want to leave a semi decent nib on each side, c 220-250 mm if 3.5 or 3.4 respectively
[3.9-3.4 = .5/2 = 250]
which would pretty much disappear if I fill the frame internally to the sliced cavity wall.
In addition anything less than 220 means I can't slice the inner leaf from the inside with the consaw on the left hand side
I also plan to strengthen the nibs.
Having said all that, the new footing opening in front of the existing wall give me more options to build a pair of new piers and hang the door off the inside face.
This also revealed that the floor slab is 7 to 8 inches thick with no foundation, wall is built on top of it.
I tapped the floor inside with a crowbar last night, it sounds hollow so.....
Much to consider.!

[Calahonda52]

So am going to look again at the roller shutter so park this madness for now!